Flashback Fever: The Rise of Archive Fashion
Rihanna in Chanel F/W 1996
They say history always references itself by relating where it was over 20 years ago. As we see in real time in this country, with a looming recession and constant news of war and imperialism, that the economy and politics never cease to go back in the closet and dig some up some old skeletons. Where we as fashionistas parallel from politicians, is that when we go back into that closet, it is not archaic policies infringing on human rights or whatever lame stuff it is they do, but we pull out pieces that represent memories and a time where we once roamed or dared to do so.
As our world shifts into an uncomfortable state of what we thought as a culture we left behind, the memories ordained by our clothes and music and movies have arisen back to popularity. Every chick flick is getting rebooted, and for some odd reason the early 2000s are a source of inspo for top designers.
The fashion of the early 2000s and 90s were unprecedented and unforgettable. As we approached the new millennium, designers explored fashion in every which way, almost as if to cleanse the palette so we can start the next 1,000 years walking into an oasis of white. American novices like Todd Oldham and Betsey Johnson opted for ‘more is more’, while Tom Ford made minimalism the new maximalism. Over 30 years later, those works still hone something real, fashion has become so repetitive in the age of rushed consumerism, that now archiving and remembering the importance of certain garments has been put on the forefront slowly but surely.
Rihanna in Gucci S/S 1999
So what conjured this sudden interest in archiving ? With the rise of clothing pollution, many people in the real world are second hand shopping. It is cheaper and shows an effort towards conservation. But the industry at large has taken that mentality of course but an exaggerated spin on it.
And honestly, too many girls look alike now. Showrooms can’t always keep up with demand and nobody wants a red carpet hand-me-down. Stylists can guarantee their client will be a one of one at any occasion because how many girls do you think will show up in the exact same archive Vivienne Westwood piece ?
Social media has definitely played an underhand in these musings lately. The online world of “high fashion” cliques has fueled this inane obsession with going backwards, as if the 90s and 2000s could ever be forgotten. But these kids have not lost memory but instead decided to celebrate the genius of this time. How often do we reflect on John Galliano’s tenure at Givenchy or discuss when there was a time Dolce & Gabbana was actually taken seriously ? Donatella Versace took us back to the genius of her late brother with her S/S 2018 collection which was an ode to the timeless provocateur that Gianni was.
Due to this social media straddled underground world of flashback postings, there has now been a domino effect in which editors, photographers, and marketers are now referencing to a past we did not appreciate enough.
Not only has archiving been a great stance of conservation ethics but also quite lucrative. Resellers and archivers like Pechuga Vintage and Yuri’s Market have become the go-to hotspots for others archivists and stylists to build their collection, almost like a neighborhood kids trading cards. But instead of rookie cards, it’s vintage Raf Simons. Alongside them, are people like myself. Content creators who bevy on the importance of remebering forgotten moments in fashion and pop culture. Kim Russell has amassed nearly 100k followers on Instagram alone due to her well researched deep dives, while Nygel Simons has created a niche fanbase due to his well researched fashion history through hip hop videos and red carpet moments.
Do you think this trend will last ? It begs the question of whether or not the artisans and creators of today are up to the task or will have us strolling down memory lane for quite awhile ? It is fun now but surely the throwback trend can get old soon, we can appreciate the past for what it was while also embarking constantly to live a footprint in the sand right now.